Items & Instructions

The middle school students in Knots for NICU hand-make numerous items: from receiving blankets (which double as NICU incubator sheets), to crocheting and knitting beanie hats and headbands in the tiniest of sizes, to designing and sewing burial gown sets from donated wedding dresses. Below are instructions and tutorials we follow, and invite others to join us in making these rewarding items!
Knitted or crocheted hats are always a hit (any colors).  You can make them plain or adorned with pom-poms, flowers, animals, whatever!
  • SIZES - It is okay if your hat sizes vary in diameter between 7"-13" (see size chart reference below) because of the vast size difference in all preemies. Remember, a preemie in the NICU can vary from 22 weeks all the way up to 37 week babies!
  • VIDEOS - Follow these YouTube videos for measurements and patterns for preemie sized hats. 
  • ​YARN - Smoke-free please! 
    • ​The best yarn to use is baby yarn because it’s soft and lightweight (e.g. 5oz/140g; or 4oz/113g). (See yarn label example image below.) 
    • The yarn should be soft, warm, washable, and hypoallergenic, such as: acrylic, cotton, bamboo, alpaca, and similar soft yarns are good choices - as long as they are labeled washable.
    • Wool is not a great idea (unless it says "superwash" wool/merino - which is okay!) because some babies may be sensitive to it. 
  • SUPPLIES/TOOLS - Additional tools needed for these projects are: 
    • crochet hooks (5mm or size US-H-8 OR 4mm US-G-6); or knitting needles work!
    • Optional beginner's shortcut: a Loom Knitting Set can be purchased from Amazon.
Plain headbands or adorned (with a pom-pom or bow, etc.) are all welcomed. (Please avoid button embellishments.) 
  • SIZES - Headband sizes can vary in diameter between 7"-13" (see size chart reference above) because of the vast size difference in all preemies. Remember, a preemie in the NICU can vary from 22 weeks all the way up to 37 week babies!
  • VIDEOS - Follow this YouTube video for easy instruction and pattern ideas for headbands
    • ​https://youtu.be/Dvye5C2sFvo  For crocheting, a good count for preemie-sized headbands is 70 chains (count) in length when using a thinner/baby weight yarn (such as 4oz/113g).  It is okay if your finished sizes vary! 
  • ​​YARN - Smoke-free please! 
    • ​The best yarn to use is baby yarn because it’s soft and lightweight (e.g. 5oz/140g; or 4oz/113g). (See yarn label example image above.) 
    • The yarn should be soft, warm, washable, and hypoallergenic, such as: acrylic, cotton, bamboo, alpaca, and similar soft yarns are good choices - as long as they are labeled washable.
    • Wool is not a great idea (unless it says "superwash" wool/merino - which is okay!) because some babies may be sensitive to it. 
  • SUPPLIES - Additional tools needed for these projects are: 
    • Crochet hooks (5mm or size US-H-8 OR 4mm US-G-6); or knitting needles work!

Embellishments

Embellishing a hat or headband with a pom-pom, bow, heart, duckie, or flower is a creative way to express your unique flair on your item and bring an additional smile to your recipient.  Here are some items we love:

POM-POMS

  • ​We love these pom-pom makers by Clover brand. There are some knock offs, but these makers are more durable than the others we have tried.
  • The 3/4" (20 mm) and 1" (25 mm) pom-pom makers are perfect for hats sized 6"-7.5"; the 1-3/8" (35 mm) and 1-5/8" (45 mm) pom-pom makers are perfect for hats sized 8"-10". The largest pom-pom makers, 2-1/2" (65 mm) and 3-3/8" (85 mm) are best for 11" - 13" hats.

BOWS

We love this YouTube bow tutorial for a crocheted bow, which yields a 2" bow. Perfect for hats or headbands!

HEARTS

  • We love this YouTube heart tutorial for small crocheted hearts.
  • Here are written instructions (with abbreviations) to accompany the video tutorial:
  1. Foundation: Create Magic Ring.
  2. Chain (Ch) 2, place 3 Treble Crochet (TR) inside the magic ring. 
  3. 3 Double Crochet (DC) inside the magic ring. Ch 1. 
  4. 1 TR in the magic ring. Ch 1. (You have completed half the heart) 
  5. 3 DC inside the magic ring. 
  6. 3 TR inside the magic ring. Ch 2.
  7. Slip Stitch (Sl St) into the magic ring. Ch 1. 
  8. Cut yarn, leaving long tail. Pull tail tight.
  9. Close magic ring. 
  10. Weave in any loose ends!

FLOWERS

We love this YouTube flower tutorial for a crocheted flower adornment.

BABY CHICK

To Start:
  1. Make a magic circle using yellow yarn.
  2. Chain 3, while going around the circle make 14 Treble Crochet.
  3. Pull string to close the inner circle.
  4. Slip stitch to close top of the circle.
  5. To Make Head:
  6. 1 Single Crochet, 1 half Double Crochet in first stitch.
  7. 2 Double Crochet in next stitch.
  8. 1 Half Double Crochet, 1 Single Crochet, 1 Slip Stitch in next stitch. 
  9. Stretch loop to set down
  10. To Make Beak:
  11. Change yarn to orange.
  12. Pull yarn through top to form a loop on top side.
  13. Chain 3, by going down the chain to the 2nd chain.
  14. Slip Stitch in the 2nd chain (forming tip of beak).
  15. 1 single crochet in 3rd chain.
  16. Slip Stitch to the yellow body in next stitch.
  17. Secure the beak to the back of chicken using a darning needle trimming the ends
  18. To Make Body:
  19. Pick up the loose yellow yarn of the body with your crochet hook.
  20. Chain 2, go under the beak and slip stitch in next stitch.
  21. Continue slip stitches around the body to the tail position.
  22. To Make Tail:
  23. 1 single crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 chain in same stitch.
  24. Slip Stitch to body and continue slip stitches to the head position, and tie off.
  25. To Make Eye:
  26. Use black yarn for the eye and sew in a stitch with darning needle.
Preemie sized blankets (bought or sewn) are used as both swaddling blankets and NICU incubator crib sheets.
  • SIZE - Buy 1 yard of fabric (36"x36") to make 1 blanket. A good measurement for the finished product is about 35”x35” aquare. 
  • FABRIC – soft, thin fabrics like nursery flannel, brushed flannel, or muslin material (any color or pattern) yield the best results; 1 yard of fabric yields 1 blanket.
    • If you would like to donate supplies for sewing blankets, we have sewers that can do it! Any donations of nursery flannel fabric or muslin material is all they need (1 yard makes 1 blanket; any colors/patterns you think baby would like).
INSRUCTIONS:
  • This blanket/swaddling cloth is a single side of fabric, it is not lined or doubled. 
  1. Cut a yard of fabric to 36" by 36" square.
  2. Fold over a side/edge of the fabric approximately 1/4" and iron the fold so it stays down. Repeat for all four sides of the fabric. 
  3. Repeat prior step a second time on all four sides - so that a second fold is ironed down. 
  4. Unfold the ironed corners and miter cut the corners, so the corners are not too thick for your sewing machine. 
  5. Use sewing machine to sew a top stitch on all four sides, close to the inside edge of folded, ironed fabric to make a simple 1/4" hem. (See blanket folding/miter cut example images below.) ​
​The unfortunate reality for preemie babies is that there are only two ways out of the NICU: be well enough to go home, or to leave as an angel. During such a difficult time, parents appreciate the lovingly made burial gowns as a sentiment and comfort during a time when they may not even know where to turn to make burial arrangements.  An Angel Gown is made from donated wedding dresses to repurpose into burial gowns. We love the Kimono style burial gown style with ribbon ties in the back (they are easy for nurses to administer). We like to make a gown for baby, and two coordinating keepsakes (one for each mother to keep, and one 'thank you' memento for the wedding gown donor). Gowns can be made from wedding gowns, or prom dresses (for those that would like color). We are so thankful for those who have donated gowns, and are humble to be able to make these for parents. All gowns are made by volunteers and donated to hospitals for them to provide to parents for free.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
  • Gown/dress (wedding or prom)
  • Thread to match
  • Satin ribbon (1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2" suggested)
  • Lining fabric (in white, off-white, or coordinating color)
  • Pattern (download provided by 7PineDesign)
burial_gown-angel_gown_pattern-nicu_sizes.pdf
File Size: 463 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File
burial_gown-angel_gown_vest_pattern.pdf
File Size: 239 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File
 INSTRUCTIONS:
  1. Print our favorite pattern from 7PineDesign: download above or visit link to gown pattern.
  2. The pattern has 4 sizes: Newborn, Preemie, Tiny, and Micro,  All sizes are welcome and needed by hospitals. Cut the pattern out so that you have the same size of a front half (top and bottom), and a back half (top and bottom).
  3. Prepare the gown:
    1. Cut along the existing seams of the dress to open it up.
    2. Carefully cut out decorations and embellishments, using a seam ripper as needed.
    3. Set aside different decorations cut from the dress to use as decoration on the burial gown later.
  4. To cut the "front" pattern of the gown, fold the gown fabric in half and pin the front pattern to the fabric lining up the fold part of the fabric to the fold part of the pattern piece. Add additional pins along the outline of the pattern as needed. You will only cut 3 sides, do not cut the fold.
  5. To cut the "back" pattern, fold the gown fabric in half and pin on all 4 sides, cut along outline of pattern.
  6. Next, repeat steps 4 & 5 for cutting the lining fabric. The burial gown will consist of an outer gown layer (front and back from the dress) and an inner lining (usually from purchased absorbing cotton).
  7. Once all four pieces of fabric are cut out (an "exterior" FRONT from the wedding/prom dress, an "exterior" BACK from the wedding/prom dress, an "interior" FRONT from the lining fabric, and an "interior" BACK from the lining fabric).
  8. Pin shoulders (of exterior front piece to exterior back pieces), right sides together.
  9. Sew shoulders (1/4" seams).
  10. Press shoulder seam flat  towards the back side of gown, using an iron. For lining, repeat steps 8 & 9; pinning lining front piece to lining back pieces, sew, and use an iron to press shoulders flat towards the back.  
  11. With right sides together (exterior and inner lining), pin lining to exterior at the neck matching the shoulder seams and back edges.
  12. Sew around neck.
  13. Snip the fabric around the curves of the neck, being careful not to snip the seam. (This step helps later for the give of a curve when we turn the garment to the outer side.)
  14. Flip up the lining and iron the neck flat where the exterior (right side) is sewn to the lining. 
  15. Then turn the fabric so the lining is on the inside, and press the neck seam so the seam lays flat, using an iron.
  16. Turn the garment inside out again so that the right sides are together, open the dress flat, and pin the ends of the sleeves together matching the shoulder seams and edges of lining and exterior sleeves.
  17. Sew the end of the sleeves.
  18. From the front side of the dress, slide your hand through the shoulder and grab both back pieces of fabric (exterior and liner) and pull it through the shoulder to the front; this will right-side-out the dress. Flatten the dress in an open position to see the inverted seam of the sleeves which have just been sewn.  Press the sleeve seam so the seam lays flat, using an iron. Tip: iron so the lining is not visible from the front when pressed. Iron flat; repeat for the other sleeve seam.
  19. Measure and cut 4 satin ribbons to be used on the backside for two sets of ties for the back closure of the gown. (Suggested ribbon length: 8"-10", depending on pattern size used.)
  20. Position and pin the ribbons on the backside openings of the gown so that there will be ribbon ties at the neck and again at 1/3 of the way down the back. Be sure to align the ribbons on the left panel matching the position on the right panel. The ribbons should be placed so one end is flush with the raw edge of the fabric and the rest of the length (tail) of the ribbon is flowing towards the sleeves/below the armpit.
  21. Sew the ribbons to the edge of the exterior fabric of the gown with a small, short stitch to hold each ribbon. These "tacking" stitches will be hidden inside your seam.  Be sure NOT to sew the ribbons to both the exterior fabric and the lining -- only sew the ribbons to the exterior fabric.
  22. Next, prepare the back left panel to sew the center seam of the back on the left panel (where the gown is open in the back and comes together).  Turn the back left panel inside out in order to pin the lining to the exterior fabric (right sides together). (You do not necessarily need to invert the WHOLE dress to do this step.)
  23. Sew 1/4" seam up the center back left panel, being sure not to catch any loose ribbon ends.
  24. Now prepare the other side: the back right panel to sew the center seam of the back on the left panel (where the gown is open in the back and comes together).  Turn the back right panel inside out in order to pin the lining to the exterior fabric (right sides together). (You do not necessarily need to invert the WHOLE dress to do this step.)
  25. Sew 1/4" seam up the center back right panel, being sure not to catch any loose ribbon ends.
  26. Trim back neck seam point by diagonally cutting the point off (being careful not to cut the seams) for less bulk when turning right sides out. Make sure the four 8"-10" satin ribbons are loose and able to be tied in a bow for closing the back. Turn right sides out, pushing a chopstick or blunt-ended poker into the corner seam by the neck to fully push it out.
  27. Press the back seams down using an iron so the seam lays flat; do the left side back panel, and then the right side back panel you just sewed. Tip: iron so the lining is not visible from the front when pressed.
  28. Open the dress flat.
  29. Side seams are sown as one continuous seam and to make it easier, cut 1/8" slits into all 4 armpit curves -- into the curve in the armpit so it is easier to sew (so the fabric can straighten easier when sewing the sharp armpit curve).  (Optional tip: If your dress is inside out by opening up the front, and pull the back towards the front through the shoulder hole.)
  30. Fold the dress in half at the shoulders, matching the underarm sleeve seams.
  31. One side at a time, invert the side at the sleeve hem so that the exterior right sides are together, and the lining sides are together. 
  32. This step is for you to get ready to sew up the side seams, one side at a time. Pin the inverted sleeve hems together so you don't lose your hold.  You know are doing it right if you've matched up the exterior fabric "right sides together", and the lining fabric against the lining fabric. This will create an upside down U-shape of fabric with raw edges, going from the bottom hem, up the left side, under the armpit, and down the right side; this step is for you to get ready to sew up the side seams, going from the bottom hem, up the exterior side of the side, under the armpit, and down the lining side of the side.
  33. Pin the open seams together along the upside down U-shape perimeter.
  34. Sew 1/4" seam on both sides: up the lining side, under the armpit, and down the gown exterior side.
  35. Now repeat steps 30-34 for the other side of the dress.
  36. Turn the gown right-side-out, with all seams completed seen and pressed and no raw edges except the hem. Maneuver it a little bit to get the tiny sleeves out. ​With the dress turned right sides out, press inside seams flat using an iron.
  37. Next, the last part to sew is the bottom hem.
  38. Put all of the garment to the inside (no need to turn the sleeves or the neck) to match up the bottom raw edges of the dress, right sides together of the lining and the exterior.
  39. Pin to hold edges in place, matching the side seams of lining and exterior and center back should be flat.
  40. Sew dress bottom from one end to the other end, but be sure to leave an unsewn section on the back panel.
  41. On one of the back panels, do not sew a 2" space in order to leave a hole to turn out your dress one last time. Sew all the rest of the hem. Cut the center back panel points on a diagonal (making sure not to cut the seams) for less bulk when turning to right side out.
  42. Turn right sides out through the hole you left in the last step, using a chopstick or blunt-ended poker to push out hem line center back point corner.
  43. Press with iron, and top stitch the 2" hole closed that you left open on the back bottom hem.
  44. The final step is to press everything into place.
OPTIONAL VEST ATTACHMENT STEPS (for boy-gown version)

Vest Instructions:
V1. Cut out vest pattern to have 4 pieces (left side exterior and lining, and right side lining fabric).
V2. Lay the lining on the exterior fabric; pinning fabric right sides together.
V3. Sew a 1/4" seam around the perimeter of the vest, EXCEPT for the shoulder, and EXCEPT for the side seam -- leave those 2 edges unstitched. (Those sections will be encased into the seams of the gown to attach the vest to the gown.)
V4. Invert the sewn vest, insiding-them-out via the unsewn side seams. 
V5. Push the edges out from the inside with a chopstick to make sharp, pointy corners of the vest.
V6. Press the seams flat so the lining does not show in the front.
V7. Top-stitch a very narrow edge stitch around the perimeter of the vest, to give it a tailored look (again, EXCEPT for the shoulder, and EXCEPT for the side seam -- leave those 2 edges unstitched).  
V8. ATTACH THE VEST PIECES TO THE GOWN: Do this BEFORE you attach the lining to the front of the gown.
V9. Take both vest pieces and match them up onto the front of the gown (to the exterior fabric, front) along the shoulders and the side (the outer edge side seams).  The vest openings will overlap down the center front, because buttons will be added later.
V9. Pin the vest to the front of the gown at the shoulders and on the outer sides.
V10. Sew a quick stitch along the shoulder and side of the vest to attach it (baste it) to the top of the exterior fabric of the gown, so that these pieces stay securely in place when you sew the seam of the exterior gown fabric to the lining in a later step.
V11. If you attached a vest for a boy-garment, your last step is to hand-sew the buttons to the front of the vest, if using.
----Resume gown steps above where we add the lining to the front of the gown, right sides together.-----

Gallery

Copyright © 2024 Knots for NICU - All Rights Reserved.