Burial Gowns

The students in Knots for NICU hand-make numerous items from receiving blankets (which double as incubator crib sheets), to crocheting & knitting beanie hats & headbands, to designing and sewing burial gown sets from donated wedding dresses, as well as scent hearts from leftover blanket fabric. Below are instructions & tutorials we follow, & invite others to join in making these rewarding items!

We also support children's hospice through donating child sized dresses and suits. Read more here!

Burial Gown Sets

The unfortunate reality for preemie babies is that there are only two ways out of the NICU: be well enough to go home, or to leave as an angel. During such a difficult time, parents appreciate the lovingly made burial gowns as a sentiment and comfort during a time when they may not even know where to turn to make burial arrangements. An Angel Gown is made from donated wedding dresses to repurpose into burial gowns. We love the Kimono style burial gown style with ribbon ties in the back (they are easy for nurses to administer). We like to make a gown for baby, and two coordinating keepsakes (one for each mother to keep, and one 'thank you' memento for the wedding gown donor). Gowns can be made from wedding gowns, or prom dresses (for those that would like color). We are so thankful for those who have donated gowns, and are humble to be able to make these for parents. All gowns are made by volunteers and donated to hospitals for them to provide to parents for free.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Gown/dress (wedding or prom)
Thread to match
Satin ribbon (1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2" suggested)
Lining fabric (in white, off-white, or coordinating color)
Pattern (download provided by 7PineDesign) Note: Extend the length of the gown pattern by 1.5" so that it is long enough for more babies.

burial_gown-angel_gown_pattern-nicu_sizes.pdf
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burial_gown-angel_gown_vest_pattern.pdf
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GOWN INSTRUCTIONS:

Print our favorite pattern from 7PineDesign: download above or visit link to gown pattern.
The pattern has 4 sizes: Newborn, Preemie, Tiny, and Micro, All sizes are welcome and needed by hospitals. Cut the pattern out so that you have the same size of a front half (top and bottom), and a back half (top and bottom).
Prepare the gown:
1. Cut along the existing seams of the dress to open it up.
2. Carefully cut out decorations and embellishments, using a seam ripper as needed.
3. Set aside different decorations cut from the dress to use as decoration on the burial gown later.
To cut the "front" pattern of the gown, fold the gown fabric in half and pin the front pattern to the fabric lining up the fold part of the fabric to the fold part of the pattern piece. Add additional pins along the outline of the pattern as needed. You will only cut 3 sides, do not cut the fold.
To cut the "back" pattern, fold the gown fabric in half and pin on all 4 sides, cut along outline of pattern.
Next, repeat steps 4 & 5 for cutting the lining fabric. The burial gown will consist of an outer gown layer (front and back from the dress) and an inner lining (usually from purchased absorbing cotton).
Once all four pieces of fabric are cut out (an "exterior" FRONT from the wedding/prom dress, an "exterior" BACK from the wedding/prom dress, an "interior" FRONT from the lining fabric, and an "interior" BACK from the lining fabric).
Pin shoulders (of exterior front piece to exterior back pieces), right sides together.
Sew shoulders (1/4" seams).
Press shoulder seam flat towards the back side of gown, using an iron. For lining, repeat steps 8 & 9; pinning lining front piece to lining back pieces, sew, and use an iron to press shoulders flat towards the back.
With right sides together (exterior and inner lining), pin lining to exterior at the neck matching the shoulder seams and back edges.
Sew around neck.
Snip the fabric around the curves of the neck, being careful not to snip the seam. (This step helps later for the give of a curve when we turn the garment to the outer side.)
Flip up the lining and iron the neck flat where the exterior (right side) is sewn to the lining.
Then turn the fabric so the lining is on the inside, and press the neck seam so the seam lays flat, using an iron.
Turn the garment inside out again so that the right sides are together, open the dress flat, and pin the ends of the sleeves together matching the shoulder seams and edges of lining and exterior sleeves.
Sew the end of the sleeves.
From the front side of the dress, slide your hand through the shoulder and grab both back pieces of fabric (exterior and liner) and pull it through the shoulder to the front; this will right-side-out the dress. Flatten the dress in an open position to see the inverted seam of the sleeves which have just been sewn. Press the sleeve seam so the seam lays flat, using an iron. Tip: iron so the lining is not visible from the front when pressed. Iron flat; repeat for the other sleeve seam.
Measure and cut 4 satin ribbons to be used on the backside for two sets of ties for the back closure of the gown. (Suggested ribbon length: 8"-10", depending on pattern size used.)
Position and pin the ribbons on the backside openings of the gown so that there will be ribbon ties at the neck and again at 1/3 of the way down the back. Be sure to align the ribbons on the left panel matching the position on the right panel. The ribbons should be placed so one end is flush with the raw edge of the fabric and the rest of the length (tail) of the ribbon is flowing towards the sleeves/below the armpit. Alternate sew position for ribbon ties: NICU nurses have suggested that instead of sewing the mid-back ribbons into the back seam in step 29, sew them into the side seams instead, so that the gown can be sized to fit even smaller babies. Keep the neck ribbons at the center seam.
Sew the ribbons to the edge of the exterior fabric of the gown with a small, short stitch to hold each ribbon. These "tacking" stitches will be hidden inside your seam. Be sure NOT to sew the ribbons to both the exterior fabric and the lining -- only sew the ribbons to the exterior fabric.
Next, prepare the back left panel to sew the center seam of the back on the left panel (where the gown is open in the back and comes together). Turn the back left panel inside out in order to pin the lining to the exterior fabric (right sides together). (You do not necessarily need to invert the WHOLE dress to do this step.)
Sew 1/4" seam up the center back left panel, being sure not to catch any loose ribbon ends.
Now prepare the other side: the back right panel to sew the center seam of the back on the left panel (where the gown is open in the back and comes together). Turn the back right panel inside out in order to pin the lining to the exterior fabric (right sides together). (You do not necessarily need to invert the WHOLE dress to do this step.)
Sew 1/4" seam up the center back right panel, being sure not to catch any loose ribbon ends.
Trim back neck seam point by diagonally cutting the point off (being careful not to cut the seams) for less bulk when turning right sides out. Make sure the four 8"-10" satin ribbons are loose and able to be tied in a bow for closing the back. Turn right sides out, pushing a chopstick or blunt-ended poker into the corner seam by the neck to fully push it out.
Press the back seams down using an iron so the seam lays flat; do the left side back panel, and then the right side back panel you just sewed. Tip: iron so the lining is not visible from the front when pressed.
Open the dress flat.
Side seams are sewn as one continuous seam and to make it easier, cut 1/8" slits into all 4 armpit curves -- into the curve in the armpit so it is easier to sew (so the fabric can straighten easier when sewing the sharp armpit curve). (Optional tip: If your dress is inside out by opening up the front, and pull the back towards the front through the shoulder hole.) Notes: If you are sewing closure ribbons from the side seams instead of the back, sew them in this step. If you are adding a vest, sew the vest into the side seams in this step.
Fold the dress in half at the shoulders, matching the underarm sleeve seams.
One side at a time, invert the side at the sleeve hem so that the exterior right sides are together, and the lining sides are together.
This step is for you to get ready to sew up the side seams, one side at a time. Pin the inverted sleeve hems together so you don't lose your hold. You know you are doing it right if you've matched up the exterior fabric "right sides together", and the lining fabric against the lining fabric. This will create an upside down U-shape of fabric with raw edges, going from the bottom hem, up the left side, under the armpit, and down the right side; this step is for you to get ready to sew up the side seams, going from the bottom hem, up the exterior side of the side, under the armpit, and down the lining side of the side.
Pin the open seams together along the upside down U-shape perimeter.
Sew 1/4" seam on both sides: up the lining side, under the armpit, and down the gown exterior side.
Now repeat steps 30-34 for the other side of the dress.
Turn the gown right-side-out, with all seams completed seen and pressed and no raw edges except the hem. Maneuver it a little bit to get the tiny sleeves out. With the dress turned right sides out, press inside seams flat using an iron.
Next, the last part to sew is the bottom hem.
Put all of the garment to the inside (no need to turn the sleeves or the neck) to match up the bottom raw edges of the dress, right sides together of the lining and the exterior.
Pin to hold edges in place, matching the side seams of lining and exterior and center back should be flat.
Sew dress bottom from one end to the other end, but be sure to leave an unsewn section on the back panel.
On one of the back panels, do not sew a 2" space in order to leave a hole to turn out your dress one last time. Sew all the rest of the hem. Cut the center back panel points on a diagonal (making sure not to cut the seams) for less bulk when turning to right side out.
Turn right sides out through the hole you left in the last step, using a chopstick or blunt-ended poker to push out hem line center back point corner.
Press with iron, and slip stitch or ladder stitch the 2" hole closed that you left open on the back bottom hem.
The final step is to press everything into place.

OPTIONAL VEST ATTACHMENT STEPS (for boy-gown version)

Vest Instructions:
V1. Cut out vest pattern to have 4 pieces (left side exterior and lining, and right side lining fabric).
V2. Lay the lining on the exterior fabric; pinning fabric right sides together.
V3. Sew a 1/4" seam around the perimeter of the vest, EXCEPT for the shoulder, and EXCEPT for the side seam -- leave those 2 edges unstitched. (Those sections will be encased into the seams of the gown to attach the vest to the gown.)
V4. Invert the sewn vest, insiding-them-out via the unsewn side seams.
V5. Push the edges out from the inside with a chopstick to make sharp, pointy corners of the vest.
V6. Press the seams flat so the lining does not show in the front.
V7. Top-stitch a very narrow edge stitch around the perimeter of the vest, to give it a tailored look (again, EXCEPT for the shoulder, and EXCEPT for the side seam -- leave those 2 edges unstitched).
V8. ATTACH THE VEST PIECES TO THE GOWN: Do this BEFORE you attach the lining to the front of the gown.
V9. Take both vest pieces and match them up onto the front of the gown (to the exterior fabric, front) along the shoulders and the side (the outer edge side seams). The vest openings will overlap down the center front, because buttons will be added later.
V9. Pin the vest to the front of the gown at the shoulders and on the outer sides.
V10. Sew a quick stitch along the shoulder and side of the vest to attach it (baste it) to the top of the exterior fabric of the gown, so that these pieces stay securely in place when you sew the seam of the exterior gown fabric to the lining in a later step.
V11. If you attached a vest for a boy-garment, your last step is to hand-sew the buttons to the front of the vest, if using.
----Resume gown steps above where we add the lining to the front of the gown, right sides together.-----

KEEPSAKE HEART (one for bride and one for parents)

Heart Instructions:

Use a 5" heart pattern to cut out two pieces of fabric from the wedding dress; use the dress's decorations to design the front of the heart. (The back of the heart can be plain.) Tip: be sure to cut the hearts squared up with the fabric grain.
On the sewing machine, shorten the stitch length to 2.0 to make the curves smoother. Tip: some may find a 1/4" quilting foot works nicely.
Cut an 8" length of coordinating fabric.
Tape the ribbon loop in place at top center of the heart, to catch in seam.
Lay the two pieces of fabric right-sides together -- being sure the ribbon loop is inside the heart.
Secure the two pieces of fabric in place using pins or wonder clips to keep layers of fabrics as flat as possible.
Optional tip if heart has multi-layers for the front and back, like a lace overlay: use tiny zigzag (3.0 W 1.5 L) through all front layers, then all back layers, at the 1.5” opening on one side just above the bottom point.
Sew the heart with a 2.0 length running stitch making a small seam, using a backstitch to reinforce at the top center and bottom center, of the heart, then trim close at both. Be sure to leave a 1.5" unsewn opening in order to invert the heart later on.
Use pinking shears to trim close to the edge of the fabric in order to minimize seam bulk, before turning.
Turn the heart right-side out, remove the ribbon tape, and poke all corners and edges out with a blunt poker (such as a crochet hook, a chopstick, or large hemostat).
Carefully iron the heart flat.
Stuff the heart with polyfill stuffing, using the poker to help move the stuffing to all corners of the heart.
Close the heart with a very close edge stitch on opening side and also the other side (making a V shape at the bottom, so it’s symmetrical and stays more heart-shaped.)

Angel Blankets

Blankets accompany a burial gown set (blanket, keepsake heart, and baby gown) OR can be a standalone, 10" washcloth-sized Angel Blanket packaged with a keepsake heart for a dignified wrapping for deceased babies that are too small to dress in a gown. The blanket versions are made the same; only the size of the blankets differ. How to make:

You may wash and dry all fabric before cutting out blankets (though not required). Even wedding dresses can be laundered in the washing machine for this purpose. Special detergent is not necessary. Ironing suggested prior to starting.
Measure your fabric according to the sizes suggested (10" square for Angel blankets, 13" square to accompany micro-sized burial gowns; 15" square to accompany micro-sized burial gowns; 17" square to accompany micro-sized burial gowns; 19" square to accompany micro-sized burial gowns).
Cut out two squares of fabric each the same size (e.g. 10" x 10"). The fabric can be the same fabric, or coordinating fabrics if you desire a complementary lining fabric.
If you desire adornments or embellishment decorations (such as lace, beading, or sequins), make sure to attach them to the top (outside) of the material before proceeding to the next step.
For sewing blankets with a SEWING MACHINE, use a running stitch. Lay two pieces of coordinating fabric with right sides together.
Sew a narrow (1/4") seam around the perimeter of the fabric edge -- all the way around the square, leaving a 2" opening unsewn. Start your sewing with a backstitch or two in order to reinforce the start.
When you reach the corners, with the sewing needle in the down position, turn the corner by pivoting the fabric 90 degrees around the needle.
Continue sewing around all 4 corners.
Leave an opening large opening large enough to turn the blanket right side out -- about 2" from where you started. Be sure to end your sewing with a backstitch or two in order to reinforce the end.
Diagonally clip the corners of the fabric -- being sure not to cut the thread or stitches -- so the points turn nicely. Make sure to not clip the stitching.
Turn the blanket right side out.
Iron all hems flat while pulling the seam out; iron around on all sides.
Slip stitch or ladder stitch the opening of the blanket closed.
Turn the blanket diagonal so it sits like a diamond so that the opposite corners meet together like a stingray.
To adhere a closure, either hand-sew on a hook and eye, or top-sew decorative ribbon loops to make a bow. Other closures, such as buttons, may also be used.

Gown Gallery

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